DIY – RIDGID 2.0 Pro Gear Toolbox Brackets – How to Build

Ridgid’s Pro Gear gen 2.0’s all terrain, 
large mobile toolbox doesn’t come with   mounting brackets like the individual boxes so if 
you want to remove the wheels and hang the box,   you’ll have to wait until early 2023 
when the brackets become available.   So given Ridgid’s lack of foresight, 
I’m going to build my own large toolbox   brackets. Just keep in mind if you build 
your own brackets it voids the warranty…  I start with a scrap piece of 1/2” plywood… 
trace the top of a bracket that came with   one of the smaller boxes, and mark the position of 
the top mounting hole with a screwdriver or punch.   The mounting holes need to be 
11” apart, so I measure 11”,   and then use a punch to mark the location 
of the bottom mounting hole. Line up the   punch mark with the hole in the bottom of the 
bracket and trace the outline of the bottom.   Now to connect the lines.

making two brackets at once,   but it may be easier to make one and then repeat 
the process using the first as a template.   For the second bracket once again I’ll trace it 
out and using a square, make sure the mounting   holes line up. Honestly though, it doesn’t need 
to be perfect since I’ll be putting a level across   the brackets to get the tops lined up. That 
way the box isn’t crooked when I mount it .  I mark a line on each bracket 1 1/8” from the 
top since that’s where the brackets will attach,   take everything outside, clamp down the 
plywood, and use a jig saw to cut out the forms.   The edges don’t need to be perfect at this 
point since I’ll sand out rough edges later.   Unfortunately as soon as I got set up,   it started to lightly rain. Power tools 
and rain? Never a good combination.   Yes, it looks like I’m 
holding two large…. Moving on.  For the back of the brackets I grab two 2×2’s, which are actually 
1.5×1.5, measure 13” inches, and cut them.  The tips of each bracket need 
to tapper from 3/8” at the tip,   up to the plywood’s 1/2” thickness as shown. 
I draw the taper onto the sides of each form   so I don’t take off too much material, and 
then use an orbital sander to make the taper.   Once that’s done I can smooth 
out any rough edges on the forms.  I test them out to make sure 
they insert into the box the   same distance and make any necessary adjustments.
Since I’m making two brackets at once, I line up   the tops along the non-tapered edges clamp them 
and drill 1/8” holes at the marks 11” apart.  To make assembly easier, I mark the center of 
the 2×2’s, that would be at 3/4 of an inch,   and the center of the brackets on the line marked 
1 1/8 inches from the top, which was previously   marked, and put some temporary holding 
screws into the 11” holes I just drilled.  Before attaching though make sure the 
tapered side is on the same side as   the 2×2 or else the brackets won’t 
slide into the box properly.  On each bracket I mark and pre drill 
three 1/8” holes through the center   of the brackets, add a counter sink, and 
temporarily put in a few 1 5/8”screws.  Now I can remove the temporary screws I put 
into the mounting holes, which are 11” apart.  I use a 5/8” spade bit to make shallow 
indents at the holes marked 11” apart   and that will accommodate #42 flat washers, 
which are 5/8 in diameter with a 1/4” hole.   Predrill 1/8” holes through the 
mounting holes and into the 2×2’s.  Label which pieces go together. 
Mark around the 2×2 for reference,   and now I can remove the 1 5/8” screws.
For added strength, apply wood glue to   the 2×2 and reattach the parts using the 1 5/8” 
screws, then do it again on the other bracket.  Clamp or screw the top and bottom of each 
bracket, wipe any excess glue and let them dry.  24 hours and a wardrobe change later it’s 
time to install them according to the mounting   instructions that came with my other boxes. 
Basically, I figure out where I want them.   Draw a line at the top of the 2×2.

Put a 
level across it and mark the other stud.   Mark 16” on center. Then draw a 
line down each stud 16” on center.   Mark center on the 2×2. Clamp the first 
bracket and check that it’s level vertically.   Then I clamp and level the second bracket and 
attach both brackets using 3.5” screws and   washers. Now If I didn’t have clearance behind 
the studs to clamp, I’d have attached the first   bracket and then put a level across the top and 
mounted the second bracket. Had I needed more   holding strength I also could have replaced one 
or two of the three 1 5/8” screws between the   11” apart mounting holes with countersunk, 3.5” 
screws to penetrate the studs, but it really   wasn’t necessary in this case.


The box is going to 
store my pneumatic nailing guns and accessories,   which aren’t that heavy. Touche Ridgid!
Once I get around to it, I’ll review these   Ridgid boxes and the link will appear in the 
upper right hand corner of this video. While   the boxes don’t hold quite as much as my DeWalt 
boxes, they’re just as durable, less expensive,   and I like the new mounting feature since it 
doesn’t require any special mounting racks.  I hope this information has been 
helpful. If it has, please do me   a favor and hit that “like” button as if 
you had to build your own brackets because   RIDGID missed their product sales deadline, and 
subscribed if you like.

Thanks for watching! Ridgid’s Pro Gear gen 2.0’s all terrain,   large mobile toolbox doesn’t come with mounting 
brackets like the individual boxes so if you want   to mount the wheels. Mount the wheels? No! 
RIDGID’s mobile system 2.0 XL moo… Mooble.   RIDGID’s progrill… RIDGID’s mo… Ha! I’ll be right 
back…. Brrrrrrr…. Let’s try it again. Every time   I look at these brackets now I’m just going to 
see [bleep]s. Touché RICKET… RICKET. Oh man!.

As found on YouTube

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