2010 Ford F-150 Lariat: Replacing the HVAC mode door actuator

Hey YouTube. I've got a Ford F-150 Lariat, this one is
a 2010. Today we've got a customer complaint where
the HVAC or Climate Control System isn't directing airflow to any place other than the defrost/floor
mix position. It has gotten kind of warm here in Alaska,
and by warm, I mean 74*F. The customer would like to have air blowing out of the front
vents. Anyway the button here seems to be working. You hit the button here and the mode changes,
or at least it thinks it changes, but the airflow doesn't seem to move at all when you
hit the different modes here.

It seems to be stuck, like I said, in the
defrost/floor mix position – which is generally where the customer has it, I guess. This is a pretty common complaint on these
trucks and fortunately it's a pretty quick fix. You might have to get under the dashboard
a little bit, but this is definitely a job that a DIY'er or Do-It-Yourself'er can do. We'll go ahead and show you how to do this. Okay, so if you've got a mode door that's
not working – the first place you want to look on one of these F-150s is under the dashboard,
driver's side. I'll try to get the camera up in here where
you can see. It is located kind of above the gas pedal
assembly. Right back here, behind the gas pedal assembly,
you'll see this wire loom right here and that wire loom is connected to the mode door actuator. I'm going to go ahead and take part of the
dash panel apart so that you can get a better view here.

Okay, so the part that we're concerned with
is right here. Kind of hard to see, but there it is in the
light. That's the mode door actuator. We're going to go ahead and pull this unit
out. Ok, so the first thing we need to do to work
on this is to remove the three 13mm bolts. If you've got a truck that has the adjustable
pedals, there is a power connector up here. Space is so tight in here, I don't know if
I can get a good view of it. Right where my index finger is, there's a
power connector that you'll want to disconnect. This will get you a little more room. Anyway, you don't have to worry about the
accelerator pedal position sensor, you can leave that all plugged in. You definitely want to remove the power pedal
plug.

So it's just these three 13mm bolts, and I'm
going to go ahead and do those now. We have a power tool here so, if you've got
headphones on – you may want to turn your volume down. Just like that, the gas pedal drops down. I'm going to go ahead and remove that plug
I talked about a second ago. That allows the gas pedal assembly to drop
even further. From here, that gives us just enough space
to get at the actuator. Let me adjust the camera here and I'll get
back to you. Okay, so this is the mode door actuator – it's
held in by two 8mm screws. Here's one that's visible. And there's another one up at the top, about
where the tip of my middle finger is.

This is a connector you'll want to disconnect. So we'll go ahead and pull down on the red
tab, like so. Sometimes those tabs fall out. That's okay. Once the red tab is pulled down, you can push
on this release tab right here and the connector usually comes right off. We'll go ahead and put this aside to get it
out of our way. And we'll go ahead and remove those two 8mm
screws. There's one. And there's two. Forgive me if I'm kind of being clumsy here,
I'm working basically around the camera. And the actuator comes off just like that. Ok, once you've got the actuator removed something
you might want to do is just make sure the mode door is actually not stuck. Sometimes these doors fall apart and if that's
the case, then you have a world of headache ahead of you because you have to take the
whole dashboard apart.

In many cases, you'll be able to rotate the
mode door into the various positions. As you can see here, I'm reaching around with
my fingers and making sure this thing spins back and forth. We're good to go here. No problem with the mode door. Good, solid, steady movement. I don't hear any broken bits – I can hear
the door moving back and forth as I move this. We can go ahead and prep the new part. So this is the part that I got from my Ford
dealership. That's the part number: 8L8Z-19E616-C. Don't
be alarmed, that doesn't necessarily match the part number that's on the part itself. As you can see here, it's 8L84-19E616-CA. You just want to make sure you've got the
same part. Here's the old one. Here's the new one. Same part. Pretty much the same thing here.

Everything looks good to go. And pretty easy job here. Just put it in place of the original one and
tighten the two screws. We'll go ahead and do that now. Okay, well forgive the noise in the background. It's 5th of July and people are still celebrating
"Amurica". So anyway, this actuator motor is keyed a
certain way and you may have to twist it in the hole here until you get it to where it
will slide in. Like so. I don't know if you saw that so I'll do it
again. So you basically want to get the splines lined
up – once the splines are lined up, then you can rotate the motor around until it lines
up with its screw holes.

And we'll go ahead and thread this back in
place. There's that one there. And the top one is a little difficult to see
on camera but you can certainly feel for it. Alright – loud power tool again. These only need to be put in very lightly. You don't need to crank on them. I'll go ahead and do that here. I'm going to go ahead and follow up with a
hand ratchet so I know I'm not over-torquing this. You just want to go a little snug. Okay. Just snug. Okay, that's all the more it needs to be tightened.

We'll go ahead and plug the connector back
in. As you can see here, I just pushed the red
locking piece back in. We'll go ahead and push the connector in. Once the connector locks, push the red locking
tab back in. And from here, we're going to put the gas
pedal back together. Basically reverse of how you removed it. Let's go ahead and get the camera set up here. Get everything lined up. I'm making this look a lot more difficult
than it really is, and that's simply because I'm working around a camera and trying not
to bump it off the tripod here.

You should be able to get this job done in
5 minutes or so, if you've got all the correct tools lined out. So 13mm socket required for these three bolts. We're going to go ahead and thread them in
by hand – because we don't want to cross-thread anything. I'll go ahead and do this video in real-time
so that you can see that it doesn't take a whole lot of time. I'm sorry, I just bumped the light here. I'm just threading these in by hand to get
them started just so we know we're not cross threading anything. Okay, we're good. Power tool. Okay, there's one. There's two. Three. Follow up with a hand ratchet so I can snug
them down properly.

Oops. Alright – they're just like the other bolts,
you just want to make sure they're snug. Alright, gas pedal is in. And plug that connector back in for the power
pedal, if equipped. Alright now we're done! Okay and like everything else, once we're
done installing the parts – we verify that we've fixed the problem. So I'm going to go ahead and turn the ignition
to the "On" position, fire up the climate control system. I'll turn the fan down a little so that it's
not so loud in here. And right now we're in the defrost/floor mix
position, so I'm going to go ahead and put my hand up here. Yup, we've got air flow at the defrost vents
and we should have airflow at the floor vents. I'm going to go ahead and switch modes here,
and make sure it switches. Alright! We've got the front panels now. Nothing really coming out of the defrost and
nothing coming out of the floor vents. So let's just go to the mix position for the
front panel vents and the floor vents.

We've still got airflow down here, and we've
got airflow at the floor vent. So let's go all floor vent. Nothing at the panel. Got more airflow at the floor. And we shouldn't have anything up top. Nothing really coming out of the top. So finally, let's check the defroster and
make sure that's working properly.

Yup plenty of air at the top. Nothing really coming out of the bottom, and
nothing coming out of the front panel. We'll go ahead and go back to the front panel
and make sure it switches back. Alright, we're back at the front panel. So we can consider this job done. Pretty easy. It wasn't even that expensive of a part to
put in. Yeah, it should cost you about $50 for the
part, maybe less. I'll provide a link to an online supplier
so that you can go ahead and purchase it. Anyway, I hope this video helps – please give
it a "like" if you liked it, and if you haven't already please subscribe so that you can see
more content like this.

Anyway hope you all had a Happy 4th and we'll
see you next time!.

As found on YouTube

You May Also Like